Marty

I found a PDF online that said to look for two fuses marked MP200 on the pcb.... 4. If your original Xbox DVD drive is dead, completely, no life at all, this may help you. There are 2 small fuses on the drive PCB on the opposite side to the BA chips (look elsewhere to see how to get to them) they are brown rectangles with the markings "MP200" on them. If either of these is open circuit (blown) replace it with a 200mA fuse. I think I broke mine whilst unplugging the yellow wired connector before the Xbox had properly switched off!!! My drive is a Philips, but these fuses marked MP200 are not on the pcb...and the guide doesn't specify which model they're referring to.

I know that can be done, I'm just wondering if there's a wiring diagram to add a switch....something I can mount to the front panel.

With an upgraded 1mb flash chip on the Aladdin XT2, is it possible to have multiple BIOS' on the chip and have them selectable by an external switch?

I have a Philips drive that's faulty. I've tested it across 4 separate XBOX's (two 1.6's a 1.0 and a 1.2) and I get an identical error amongst all of them. Any XBOX I connect it to (each with it's own 80 pin cable, as well as stock IDE cable) refuses to boot....it just freezes on the logo. Also, I'm using the yellow power cable that's on each individual unit. Can anyone tell me some places to start looking on the Philips drive? Fuses? Resistors...capacitors...with my multi meter? A schematic for the PCB would be nice, or a diagram. Thanks.

Okay, thanks. I think I have an Acronis bootable disk that can clone a drive sector-by-sector....

What's the easiest way to clone a drive to put in another XBOX? Same type of drive, same adapter, same 80-wire cable, same BIOS, same XBOX version. Just a straight up clone, drop in and boot up. Thanks.

Okay, thanks.

Is it required to ground to the D0 point on a 1.6 if you're already doing an LPC rebuild, or does the rebuild take care of the D0 grounding itself?

From the archive... I don't know why I have this compulsion....but I've lapped the heatsinks on every XBOX I've owned. Usually pasted on with Arctic Silver 5 or MX4. I'll start as low as 100grit if there's too much convex or concave bow. Generally finish up with 1500.

Yeah. It's definitely noticeable.

I've just done 2 upgrades to 128MB RAM (a version 1.0 and a version 1.2 both flashed with Cerbios 256kb BIOS) From personal experience, can anyone tell me what emulation improvements they've noticed and with which ROM's? I'm particularly interested in N64 and PlayStation One, but any observations are welcome. Thanks!

Thanks for the link....that's exactly the answer I was looking for.

Assuming I'm going to test each individual piece of RAM as I install it through XBlast, does it matter the order I install them in? Should I follow any particular order (Slot 1...then Slot 2....etc...) or will the RAM test verify the RAM in whatever spot I start with?

Here's the tutorial I (mostly) followed....

I haven't done one of these since last winter, so I thought it pass the time on a rainy Sunday and put another one together. Of course, I realized I wired it up completely opposite (the mirror image of the pinout drawing)....but luckily I hadn't epoxied it together and snapped it shut. Kids, always read the instructions....twice.